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"To the Land of Thunder Dragons - BHUTAN" May 2013

Updated: Feb 20, 2021

In a true sense a Land of Thunder Dragons, from Scorching Sun to never ending rains, from severe Sun burns to shivering winds, from bouncy roads to marvellous valleys, from 4 states to a county, from a known to unknown. Drastic change in weather in a day, made us realize how we under estimated few things, 51 deg dropped to 8 deg, BAZINGAAAA :) that is when you know, what your love can make you do, crossing the extremes.

As I have mentioned in my previous posts too, my surd friend, has always come up with brilliant ideas, of bulleting in extreme weather conditions (normal is not his game) so this time this bullet fanatic friend of mine decided to do bulletbazi all the way to Bhutan, when it was the peak of summers. As always I was ready for this mind boggling, super tiring, super expensive trip. For those who don't know, Bhutan is quite an expensive tourist place, except for Indians and Bangladeshis nationals, all other need visas + need to pay tariff of 250$ everyday. Also May is not the best time for Bhutan cause it's a monsoon. Best time to visit is March and April especially 1st week of April since it's their festive season and you get to see a lot of their culture. November to January is a snow season but tourist go then too.

So here is what we covered on our Bulls (25-May-13 to 6-Jun-13), 13 Days, 4400 Kms. Noida, Varanasi, Begusarai, Phuentsholing, Thimpu, Punakaha, Paro, Phuentsholing, Darbhanga, Lucknow, Noida.

Day 1: Noida to Varanasi: 824 kms

Don't be afraid to be weak, Don't be too proud to be strong, Just look into your heart my friend, That will be the return to yourself, The return to innocence (Enigma) buzzed my phone at 1am, Hmmm, m leaving from Gurgaon, came the reply. O seriously!! dude I am still sleeping. Last day had been hectic and I slept at 10pm. Having no choice I gathered all my energy and got up. Luggage was all set so after setting the load I headed for Mahamaya flyover, where we were supposed to meet.

Let's roll baby and 2 bulls headed for the Yamuna expressway, after a tea stop at the first convenience stop at 2.30am, we throttled for Agra. The board that just passed overhead displayed temperature of 44 deg at 2.30am wakaoo, we both looked at each other though our helmet visor, smiled and throttled a lil more, we both knew what is about to come. Zooming at 100/110 kmph we reached Agra at 5am, first rays of morning were already In, by 8am we could feel the heat. With 1 or 2 small breaks we crossed Lucknow at 10am, grilled and roasted we were already, by sizzling red hot baking climate, liters of water was already consumed, we reached Allahabad at ~2.30pm. The road is quite good to drive but the complete AH1 is so built that there are no decent restaurant where you can stop, no trees to 100's of feet to give you shade, so blistering Sun and air was hitting us all the time. Overhead Sun was frowning fiercely at ~50+ deg, we sweating from all pores in our body, soaked to undies. I was getting too drowsy and restless. We stopped at a roadside dhaba for lil lunch and I crashed on a desi khat for a power nap (guess that was the day I realized what power nap is), continuous sweating in scorching Sun exhausted me completely. Guess after an hr or so, I could feel my body shaking, my friend who had been waiting for me, shook me and said, it's late now we should leave. After consuming ltrs of water (almost I guess I took a bath :)) and bottles of cold drink we left for Varanasi, 8pm we checked. The hotel guy went nuts after hearing that we are coming directly from Delhi on our bulls, koi record bana rahe hai ki ghumne k lie ja rahe hai? was his question. No, we left for a vacation to Bhutan, said my cut set surdy friend. Actually we also broke our last record, from 640 kms to 824 km max distance covered on our bull in a day.

In an hour's time, we freshened up, had our dinner and were about to go dead when my friend picked up his mobile for setting the alarm, we need to leave early in the morning by 4am, so I will wake you up at 3am. O Shut Up was my reply and I was half dead in next 5 min.

Day 2: Varanasi to Begusarai: ~ 450 kms

Abe uth saale bahut late ho gaya hai, 6 baj rahe hai (Get up dude it quite late, already 6am). Saale tune alarm band kia kya. O shutup and get ready we on time, guess broken down by sweltering day, he also needed some rest. So we packed and left by 7 to Purnia, ~600 kms, we were still on AH1 so roads were brilliant and we could zip like yesterday. We reached Sasaram and like yesterday we started sweating, no shops on road to miles, so at 1 place we parked our bulls on road and walked to the shop which was lil close. After little breakfast and cold drinks, guess Sardar got a morning call, so shopkeeper (Jha ji) showed him the way. All this while I had been discussing the route forward since we were not sure of road conditions. So this bugger gave us the route which he said is a kool one with perfect roads. Sardar was out and it was my turn, I went in and came out immediately, no seat on American style, WTF, I looked at sardar and he signaled me to balance, Seriously!! but how, but I guess this is the fun of road tripping. So we left on the route given by Jha ji and as per our expectation roads were brilliant, single lane with never ending pot holes and traffic, a lil of off road driving was the flavor of the day. Mr. Sun was not that furious today but off road biking was there for taking us for a exhausting ride. We went past Arrah and Patna (not a recommended route), our average distance was reduced drastically our target of 600km was still far and evening was already approaching. We decided to stay at Begusarai and leave early in the morning, so we checked in at 7pm in a hotel.

Day 3: Begusarai to Phuentsholing: ~ 500 kms

There are times when you are sleeping but you know what is going around in the room, a thud and before I could realize what happened, pain started oozing from my butt and heavy voice groaned, get up it's 2am. No idea why and how this nerd friend of mine has habit of being on time every day, guess he is lil insomniac too but it's because of him only we stay on schedule. So we packed and left at 3am for the India-Bhutan border. Weather was lil cool and decent roads with less traffic gave us the opportunity to zip more. ~15 kms after Purnia there was Indian Oil petrol pump with dhaba, perfect place fuel yourself, your bull and biggest of all, answering your morning call. Since we were approaching Eastern region now, weather was kind of favourable compared to day 1(around ~40 deg), past Kishanganj and Bagdogra we reached Siliguri. We met a tourist company owner who advised us to take route via Sevok rather than Jalpaiguri, after fuelling up we started rolling again to, The Destination.

I have heard places like maal road and all but here we had maal bazaar too :). After Sivok hill forest which is a little ride through mountains, we proceeded towards Jaigaon (last town of India) via Birpara. Maintained roads passing through beautiful dense plush green forest and tea gardens belt just made our day, we could feel the cool breeze passing through dense green forest region. Goodricke tea, if any one remembers, is all grown and exported from here only. Riding through the long straight roads, picturesque views (wallpaper stuff) with train whistling on the left track and Bhutan mountains much beyond that, made me recollect Dil Chahta Hai, except that they had BMW and we on our bulls :P. 5 km patch before and after the bridge was really rough. After crossing Indian Oil storage plant on the left, road splits to V, left and we were in Jaigaon area.

Border is a gate, which had little dragons on it, went through, wakaoo BHUTAN, here we are. Crossing the border gate, immediately you see the difference between 2 countries in all aspects. Okay gate has timings too from 11pm to 6 am it's closed, always. Well a friend of my friend had to join us from here, I could see a guy with bird nest on his head coming, Varoon Shenoy (Baba Jaroon) joined in, Maa hum do se teen ho gae :P. So we checked in to Hotel Namgay, opposite side of immigration department. Next day was the day for arranging permission for stay and for the ride. We went to local restaurant and had local delicacies, potato daksi, druk 11000 etc. etc and crashed later.

Day 4: Phuentsholing to Thimpu: ~ 150 kms

Challenge was getting the permission on time and leave for Thimpu early since it was a lil mountain ride. With 3 xerox copies of all docs, (passport, 5 passport size pic, DL, insurance, PUC, RC) we reached the office at 9.30am which is next to Hotel Druk. There was already a horrendous line and we thought day is gone. To our relief tourist counter was separate on 1st floor. We filled 3 individual forms for Thimpu, Paro and Punakha, submitted, gave a small route of GD PI to our paan chewing immigration officer, click on a webcam and then just waited.

Deal is without this immigration permission you cannot proceed with permission of your ride, smoke, anything. So we waited and waited when we finally got the stamp for 7 days at 1 pm :) (it can be extended again in Thimpu). We then headed for bullet permission, xerox of your immigration form is required. Smoker you need to get your smoke permission too from custom office, next to immigration office only, only 200 sticks allowed for a month, with 100% tax on it.

So after all done we tied the luggage on surd bull and Baba Jarron on mah bull, we left for Thimpu at 2pm, weather was a lil drizzling, riding up the hill, we reached a spot from where India, Jaigaon can be seen, ohh those drizzle, greenery, Torsa river and the mountains, standstill!! no words, serene, feeling of tranquillity, placid, happiness, peace. At 8 kms you get the 1st check point, so keep your papers handy always. We got the stamp and then headed again.

Riding through the drizzling roads and greenery we reach 2nd check post, Tam Chhong Zam, it was already 4pm and we had lot to cover. Rain had been pouring in and it was little dark driving between the green covered mountains. I had a so called rain coat which was helping but surd was not that comfortable since he was getting wet, we reached the Dam view restaurant. We stopped for a tea since it was getting cold and we were kinda off wet too. Checked with the restaurant owner about the road conditions further and he said you guys can make it, don't stop anywhere between cause it's not that safe too. So we headed again, there is a patch of 15 km where it's a single lane and then broad roads all the way to Thimpu. Rains were high and cold winds accompanied them, cut set friend of man was drenched and was now cold. We stopped at the shade where he could change to dry clothes and also expecting the Rain God to turn down his fury.

Riding through the broad and brilliantly maintained roads, we reached Thimpu at around 9pm and then hotel hunting was on. Hotels in complete Bhutan are expensive everywhere, so after some reki we stayed in Hotel Singye which is quite the centre of city.

Tip: Max speed once you enter Thimpu is 50 kmph, don't exceed as rules are very strict and fine of 1750 Nu.

Day 5: Thimpu: ~50 kms

Next day for a visit to immigration office again for extending the permission of stay and to other places of Bhutan. We reached the immigration office at 10am and filled a form for extension to Punakha, Trongsa and Bhumtang + extended period of stay to total of 10 days. Complete immigration office was filled with beautifully clad girls and women in their local dress. Well since it was an hour wait we went for a stroll to local market. We came back to take our permissions and then spent the day strolling around, taking pictures. All the shops that we went in, rather I believe all shops had only women. People in Bhutan and been very kind, humble and helping so far. My bike had been giving some probs so I decided to go to a Enfield showroom, checked with many people and no one really knew about it. After much hunting, Surprise Surprise.... there is no f***king showroom in Bhutan, it had been closed year back due to lack in imports. We then searched for a local workshop and area called had local mechs. I went there and they told me that battery is out of juice so I had to give it for charging, I was rather looking for a new battery, asked few people who had bullets there but all in vain. Mech told me it's only available in Phuentsholing and I should be able to make it all the way back since battery is okay, guess it was the charger, after spending 2 hrs with them we then left for the Dzong.

Timings for going inside is only 5.30 pm to 6.30 pm and we were already past it, but in the evening with lights ON, the Dzong just looked so freaking brilliant. After some clicks and spending time in and around the Dzong we headed back. Most of the roads in Thimpu are one way and rules are quite strict with heavy fine. We went to market and bought water proof jackets and trousers as it was the demand of the climate. Late evening we then went to Cafe Mojo. Cafe Mojo has live band playing and Club Dezire mix of bolly and holly. We had some fun time in both, had local delicacies and then left early as we had to kick start tomorrow morning to Punakha.

Day 6: Thimpu to Punakha: ~ 120 kms

So as always our nigger alarm clock is the first one to rise and shine at 5am but since it was raining heavily he decided to turn in for some more time. Finally at 7am we all up but showers were still there, so we decided to leave in rains only in our new suits :). Having packed the stuff we left from Thimpu, for initial 1 kms roads are not good since it had been raining and pot holes were more considering a single lane road.

For Punakha one has to go all uphill to their highest pass called Dochu La and then down to the valley. As we continued uphill temperature kept dropping and rains never seem to stop. We stopped at another check point for the stamp, me and Jaroon were alright but nigga was lil wet so while we were getting stamped he decided to change. Riding to Dochu La, was not that fast, increasing altitude, dropping temperature, riding though the clouds where visibility, at times reduced to 10 mtrs., our hands were going numb and rain water was seeping inside our clothes to places where you least expect them to be :D. At Dochu La we stopped for snaps and then went to the Dochu La resort which is half a km down. After lunch and hot cup of useless tea we proceeded to Punakha, Rain Gods were lil happy with us so they subsided a lil but still there, and then comes the most ridiculous patch of entire Bhutan. 15 kms downhill roads were messed up, crater size potholes covering entire width. Banging and bumping and riding through the only dimples of Bhutan we were approaching Punakha. I could feel baba Jaroon adjusting his ass intermittently, guess he had a ride of his lifetime sitting on the back seat :D. (Actually a Hydel project is being done which has messed up all roads in that patch) Taking a left from road to Wangdue we were downhill to Punakha ~10km. Wonderful valley with dense tall green pine cone trees all the way, step farming could be seen all over, water filled fields with little crops looked amazing. Next day was a national holiday and cops have already ordered to close all shops, bitten by hunger we were wandering in search of food. A Bong aunt was kind enough to get us in, locked the doors to feed us.

We then rode to the Dzong for a look and then checked in to Damchen Resort, decent resort next to flowing river lil expensive though and you don't have too many options. After some breakfast and drinks, we went for night shots to the Dzong, it looked brilliant with reflection on river next to it, which is the confluence of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu rivers. We went back for the dinner and after some druk and daksi we died for few hours.

Day 7: Punakha to Paro: ~ 180 kms

Rain Gods have not been kind to us from the day we were in Bhutan, after all it is a land of Thunder Dragons and they wanted us to remember it all our life. My bull battery had been giving troubles and that was the day, it failed to just come live. Being a national holiday we were afraid that we might lose a day, my friend went to cops to look for some help and they being kind, took him to a local mech from Bangalore. We took the battery for charge, kick started it and then took it to mech so fix things if possible. No one could really tell where the prob was, everything was in doubt, battery, charger, alternator etc. with no hope of relief sooner or later. With crossed fingers, we left for Paro, hoping to reach there and get some help to fix my ride. Riding down the hill is always easy but going high on altitude, dropping temprature, rains and road full of dents to a stretch of 10kms and a 80 kg luggage with eyes, nose and limbs made the matter worst. In few patches road has slipped off due to heavy rains and there was flowing mud all over. 1st and 2nd gear and throttle and screeching tyres and push and balancing on my legs we managed to reach Dochu La pass again.

Temperature has dropped and fingers were going numb again, what a irony, from burning, fiery climate to never stopping/dropping rain/temperature here. We were having our useless tea when suddenly weather started to clear off, far off mountain peaks which were covered with clouds started to flow and were vaguely visible now. All 3 we went clicking and then after our lunch and headed again. It was lil relief since it was all downhill now, it was almost 6 pm and we reached the entry gate of Thimpu, Chuzom still ~50 kms from Paro, we made some quick shots and left. Roads to Paro are nice and broad, we made it by 8pm, riding through the straight road stretch next to airport runway we entered Paro. Hotels were all booked and we had a tough time looking for one.

Bhutan has 1 airport and that too in Paro so all tourist land here and normally hotels are pre booked. Since it was a lil off season types we managed a decent suite in 1800 rs for a night at hotel Sonam Tropohel. Most of our clothes were wet and stinking, hotel guy being nice gave us a heater thinking we must be feeling cold after long ride, o yes we were. We took all our wet clothes, shoes, socks soaked in water and kept it for heater to take care of it. Freshened up and went out for dinner, right next to our hotel was live music club, we went in and girls were dancing to the tune of Bhutanese songs. We took the seats and Bazinga, music changed to Indian songs, Akki's Hokkah maar and Vidhya's O la la, o la la. Well now that was little embarrassing!! as all localities were staring at us, we were the odd men out. Our hotel guy also joined us, no idea why but seats started filling in, so many just entered. We quickly finished and left, so not to become the only jokers. It was a 2 day plan in Paro so Mr. Alarm Clock was at ease and we could watch movie and stay awake late night. Low temperature, continuous rain and days of driving had been back breaking and dog tiring, fixing plan for next 2 days stay, yawn.... all dozed off.

Day 8 and Day 9: Paro: ~150 kms

Lazy morning it was and we were deep in our slumbers. We had this hotel for a night only so plan was they leave for hotel hunting and I go to workshop for my battery juice and possible quick fix.

Hotels were swapped and I got the timings for my batt, there are quite a few places to go in and around Paro main ones being Dugel Dzong, Tiger Nest, Ha Valley, Chelela Pass, Kitchu Temple etc., so we decided to ride to Dugel Dzong (it's quite an old one and now stranded) and then to Ha valley since Tiger Nest is a good 3 hr trekking and weather had not been favourable today. It was around 15 km from Paro city and since roads are under construction, few patches were muddy and rutty. Dugel was nice and looked a perfect site for movie shoots. On the way back was there was a left cut for Tiger Nest and plans changed from Chele La to trekking since it was only 1pm. We reached the base and started trek at 2pm and Jeez, I remembered my last trek to Triund in Macleodganj.

Initially it was okay, passing through the lonely, silent, peaceful forest. Small temples build between dense plush green envelopes with those holy prayer wheel, but then came the show stopper, muddy steep steps which were held in position by stacking big logs to hold the mud from washing out. Monks with loads on their back kept walking and we kept stopping to grab some breath and water and wondering to go up or go down. Jaroon and Nigger kept walking and I kept treading slowly after them. Short distance and small breaks was my strategy to cover the route ;). After 90 min of burdensome, backbreaking and fatiguing walk we reached a place which had benches to rest and a tap, water never tasted that sweet ever!! After some 20 min rest we headed again to the monastery and came across a cafe. Since we had no plans for the trek today, we just came without lunch and 400 rs per head is the buffet cost. Having no options and after knowing that we are still mid way, we picked up the plates. Me and nigga almost gave up on going more but Jaroon had it in him.

Well he left and then we after 30 min, each step was exhausting from then and we just hoped to reach Tiger Nest view. Drudging and dragging ourselves, sweating and palpitating, me and nigga reached 'The Spot' after 90 more min of walk, ohh that complacent feeling of achieving what you started for, priceless. Though monastery was still far off and 70 deg steep down steps awaited us but we preferred to stay back for the clicks and Jaroon to be back. All done and set, we came down in 60 min. Kick started towards the hotel, we had shifted to resort called Hotel Holiday Home, right next to where runway finishes. We went to rooftop for some shots of the Dzong, dinner, drink an crash.

Next day was our ride to Chele La Pass and Ha valley, our last hotel friend had to join in with us, so we left at 10am for it. As usual Weather and Rain God with all possible fury were with us, we drove to Chele La in the rain and with numb hands. Nothing was visible due to clouds all over and we shot few pics and left for Ha valley. As we descended down the valley, weather was lil clear, warm and valley was kind of visible. Road conditions to Ha were good and green plants and trees covered them.

Plush green and yellow views made me forget how many shades of green I knew so far. Ha valley is a town situated right between 2 triangular shaped hills. We drove down and went to temple, Dzong, museum etc. Post lunch we headed back to Paro, weather had been recovering and when we reached Chela La again, view was clear and we could see everything from there. Click, click and click, we then headed for Paro as I had to get my bull fixed. 2nd surprise of our tour, Paro was closed due to some non sense and no mech was available since shops were closed. Next day was our way back to Phuentsholing and we hoped to reach there without any problemos.

Day 10: Paro to Phuentsholing : ~ 150 kms

With crossed fingers I kicked my bull and it started roaring, Thank God, we packed and left at 7am, plan was to hit Siliguri by evening. Half way through, mah bull just gave up and failed to start. Since it was not sure what the prob is but majority lied on battery, we swapped the batteries to check, I kicked and all roars. Now our main challenge was to get some juice for my batt. I took the batt on nigger bull and rode 10km bak to Tsimasham which was the only place which had workshop. My battery had gone dead and now fight was to arrange for a new battery which was just so... not... possible. I asked the mech from Jalpaiguri Sajan to help me out of the situation. After payin 2k I got a 2nd hand Pulser battery, 12V and 9Amp while I need 12V and 14Amp, not sure whether it would work, I installed it. After wasting 4 hours on the roadside, with my friends waiting near the check post, we made it to Phuentsholing. Sajan has already asked his dealer to keep a 12V 14Amp ready, so after reaching Phuentsholing, I got the new battery and returned the Pulser battery. We were in the same hotel SIngey, as last time, Jaroon was to go separate way from here and me along with nigger, all the way to Delhi.

Day 11: Phuentsholing to Darbhanga: ~ 600 kms

My alarm clock, back in action, is there a way to disable or corrupt this clock :D. We packed, loaded and adieu to Jaroon. Nigga and me, way to go baby, let's roll :). Tripping to way back home is never easy, the most boring part of the entire journey. Roads out from Jaigaon are pathetic, rather one needs to wait all the way to catch the highway after Bagdogra. We planned for Darbhanga via Purnia. Days of riding was now getting tough and 3 more days to go were looking just so intolerable, we could feels the itching marks on our butts :P. Though it was raining till Bagdogra, Bihar was still the same, high on temperature. God, seriously, is there more to come??. NHAI has done some brilliant work in maintaining the highway 57 though there are few bad patches in between. We impeled as much possible and reached Darbhanga evening at around 7pm. Not sure of Bihar (though my Bihari friend has ensured me that Bihar is all so safe now :)) and about the hotels in Bihar, we managed to find a decent hotel near the highway, hotel Shyama Regency. Though the hotel looked good but maintenance was just okay types, well for us it was just a night.

Day 12: Darbhanga to Lucknow: ~ 600 kms

Shake, shake, shake, uth ja be, bahut late karta hai tu, we have to ride a lot, let's leave. 7am we left, target reach Lucknow to my home and spend a night there. Well it doesn't take much time for your hopes to splatter, roads that have been better just gave up. A stretch of 20 to 25 kms before Gopalganj with no roads and moon like craters, dry mud and never ending traffic of trailers, just ruined the s*** out of us and the bulls. Our machines really needing a serious servicing, it had been more than 3000 kms+. My bull started giving me jerks after all though rough patches, chain had gone lose and dry, we got it tightened on the highway though we kept on refilling the engine oil at places to take care of the bulls heart. The weather was in no support, Sun was high and we going weak and tired sweating from everywhere. We stopped at a road side dhaba for lunch and splash of water to feel a lil better and muster some more strength to keep tripping. So I believe this dhaba had a corporate connection, it had a meeting and conference room too :P. So after food and quick shower we left for Lucknow, entering UP was a lil relief for us and the bulls. Roads became flat, even and broad which gave us the opportunity to propel more. Bye passing Gorakhpur, we stayed and continued on the highway after taking some fuel for our bulls. 6 pm and we were 50 kms from Lucknow, 8 pm we reached my place and unloaded. Hello Mom and Dad, we are back and we leave tomorrow morning at 2am :D.

No way, you guys have been driving like crazy all these days and you need some rest, leave day after tomorrow, came the verdict from mah Dad. Stunned I looked at cut set surdy, I knew he cannot wait as he had to make it to Chandigarh day after, so I had my explanation ready, I can't drive alone 600 kms so I need to go with him as he can't stay and has to leave. Pleading surdy that we should leave by 4am as I need some sleep to drive those last miles, we slept off.

Day 13: Lucknow to Noida: ~ 600 kms

In my dreams I could an earthquake coming up, scared of which I tried coming little to my senses, to my realization, tremors were coming from my back. Since it was my home, surdy found it hard to shout, it was 4am :P. Tiredness has managed to keep him sleeping for those extra 2 hours from his target time, God you really grant wishes at times :). Dad was already up and we packed and loaded again to make it for our last day and last few miles. We left at 5 and went past Kanpur by 7am, target, reach Noida by 4pm. Roads to Yamuna express way are decent enough to take you fast, we rode and rode and hit the expressway at 1pm.

Rain Gods in Bhutan and Sun God in India, we had been their favourite in these entire 13 days trip. Temperature rose to 45 deg+ and we were getting roasted, grilled and broiled in air which were to escort us all the way to Noida. Stopping at each of the convenience zone at toll gates, sweating and adjusting our wet butts on seat, trying to keep them stay on seat we entered Noida at 5pm. Went to office to get the home keys from my colleagues, few of my friends who came down to see me, were happy to see me back, Alive!! We went home and unloaded for the last time, entered home sweet home. Yes we are back, alive, our bullets stood by us, giving all they could to carry us back home safely. As a signature from our bullets, of all these 13 days, 4400 kms, we could feel Royal on one and Enfield on the other butt cheek of ours :P.

Things to carry:

1. 3 xerox copy of all your papers, passport, DL, RC, PUC, Insurance, with originals.

2. 4 passport size photo

3. Full sized rain coat

4. Extra pair of shoes, if they are water proof, nothing like it.

5. Spares: spark plug, fuses, Head light bulb, race and clutch wires, engine oil, kick spring and lock, rear and front tube, proper tool kit.

6. Carry a extra battery for sure.

7. Tarpal for sure with extra bungee cables.

8. Riding gears, water proof, better.

9. Buff or balaclava, very much required.

10. Medicines and first aid kit.

11. Decent pocket size point and shoot camera if you are a SLR freak.

12. Smokers, you need to carry your quota with custom clearance. Alcoholics, no worries, from general store to medical shops, you have it everywhere.

13. International debit facility on your ATM card and ISD enabled on mobile phones.

Tips: You need this for sure.

1. There is no bullet showroom in Thimpu or Bhutan, the one on website existed sometime back in years.

2. You won't get any bullet spare in Bhutan, so carry all that you want.

3. Phuentsholing (the border) is the only last place for you bull, so if you don't want to carry a battery all the way you can get one from here. Or now you know that a pulser battery would also work, if nothing else.

4. Thimpu has a speed limit of 50 kmph and Paro has 40 kmph, don't exceed and they have heavy fine for it.

5. Helmets for rider and pillion, both required.

6. Indian currency of all denominations are now accepted there, initially they were not.

7. There are no bullet mechs in Bhutan now, except for that they can fix local probs.

8. Most of the hotels have wi-fi but they never seem to work, rather one or the other thing in your hotel room won't work so check your room before fixing.

9. No smoking on public places, fine of 500 Nu on that. Before you smoke check with the local person there.

10. Pack you stuff in big poly bags inside your saddle bags, no matter how water proof you bags are, water seeps inside to your stuff.

11. People don't believe in honking there so better don't.

12. Smokers, buy your cigs from India or ensure cigs are Indian if you buy at Jaigaon. Foreign cigs, even from even Nepal have 200% tax on them to be paid at customs.

13. Between Phuentsholing and Thimpu, workshop is only in Tsimasham, Sajan (Mob. no. 17617487) is the mech their, very helpful person.

14. For your period of stay in Bhutan, find out if there is any national holiday or at times roads in the city are closed. You don't get anything during those days.

15. Keep frisking your bull condition, check the lose chains, engine oil etc.

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